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In the sun-drenched paradise of Baja California Sur, every moment is an adventure waiting to be embraced. I sought solace in the warmth of sun-soaked beaches, the majestic beauty of its wildlife, and the unexpected connections forged with both nature and the local community. From diving alongside playful dolphins to witnessing the awe-inspiring grace of humpback whales, each encounter etched its mark on my soul. Join me on this journey through stolen time—a journey that would forever transform my perspective on life.
A few days prior to departing on my flights back to Europe, back to my home, I couldn't help but feel a sense of disbelief that my time in Baja had passed by so quickly. It felt like I had stolen a precious moment away from the cold, my home, friends, and family. The sun, the sea, the wildlife, and the cactus all contributed to a series of adventures that seemed to occur almost daily. Until now, I hadn't fully grasped the reality that this incredible trip would soon come to an end. The thoughts of packing, saying goodbye, taking the flight back to London, and returning to my regular routine had not yet crossed my mind. This journey had felt like a dream, one that I desperately wished would never end. Before planning this trip, I had considered that it was time for a little fun. After a year of intense freediving training "camps" I wanted to invest in the next freediving experience that would be more exhilarating and focused on enjoyment. So, I set out for Baja California Sur, ready to explore its wildlife and make new acquaintances. The getaway turned out to be completely different from what I had initially imagined, but I wouldn't have wanted it any other way. I didn't anticipate feeling so captivated from the start. I didn't expect to organize my own sea safaris or become part of the local fishermen's community. And I certainly didn't expect to have the most extraordinary encounter of my life!
Among all the activities, the ocean excursions were undoubtedly my favorite. Each outing provided a unique kind of fun, filled with moments of wonder and awe. My eyes welled up with tears when I witnessed a humpback whale's majestic tail fluke for the first time. The initial underwater encounter, diving into the ocean resonating with whale songs as these magnificent creatures glided gracefully past, left me breathless. The second outing brought an unexpected surprise: a friendly trio of humpback whales. Initially, they appeared below us, and we were thrilled to see them, thinking they would simply pass by. However, they became intrigued and decided to engage in playfulness. Approaching us, they circled around, spun, and swiftly passed by, almost teasingly. As they came closer, one of them extended its fin as if asking for a hug or a handshake. Our eyes met, filled with mutual curiosity. We shared a moment of graceful movement together, resurfacing briefly for a breath before diving a few meters below the surface again. We dived repeatedly, cherishing their presence, unaware of how much time had passed or how long they would stay. Every time I thought we were bidding them farewell, they elegantly changed direction, granting us more precious moments together. Their turning and dancing displayed a gentle yet powerful movement that left me completely awestruck, struggling to find words to describe this surreal experience and the myriad of emotions it evoked.
Then there was the captivating hunt of the baitball! The ride was somewhat turbulent, and the hunt itself was filled with adrenaline. It was my first time witnessing such a documentary-like scene of nature's predators joining forces to feed on sardine baitballs. Sea birds and seagulls dove from the sky, snatching their targets with precision like aimed missiles. Marlins showcased their lightning speed and spear-like bills, capturing the separated and vulnerable sardines that stood no chance of survival. Dolphins sliced through the blue waters with their sleek bodies and powerful tails, emitting cheerful clicks and whistles that seemed to communicate the joy of a successful hunt. They teamed up with pelicans, while sea lions rolled, darted, and weaved in and out of the baitball with their round yet agile bodies, their silky brown fur glistening in the sunlight. The sardines fought valiantly but ultimately succumbed, causing the baitball to shrink in size with every passing second. We were mere spectators in this chaotic display of a feeding frenzy, occasionally finding ourselves dangerously close to the action, which sent my heart racing.
Witnessing the mobula rays was a sight that left me in awe. Moving in large groups, they would soar out of the water one after another, gracefully flopping down, defying gravity with their wing-like fins. The striking contrast between their dark upper bodies and white undersides created a mesmerizing pattern as they swam in unison towards the same destination.
And then there were the immense pods of dolphins, consisting of three different varieties: Bottlenose, Spotted, and Common dolphins. Each had its unique way of jumping and swimming, all swift and playful. Often, a group of a dozen or so dolphins would lead our boat, becoming our temporary travel companions. Diving alongside them, I could hear their high-pitched voices, reminiscent of a group of excited teenagers exchanging notes about their first trip abroad.
The baby whale sharks, gentle and adorable, were a delight to encounter. Despite being "only" five meters long, they constantly fed with their massive mouths wide open, creating little swirls resembling miniature tornados on the water's surface. The playful and curious sea lions glided by, coming close to check us out with their big, round black eyes. And there were days when diving turned into fishing, engaging in a battle with a mahi-mahi. David handled the reel while I brandished the "balo." Learning to fillet the fish and playfully imitating a Todos Santos fisherman in the local dialect became part of our unforgettable experiences.
The hike near La Buena Mujer, as we climbed up the rocks and gazed upon the cactus forest bathed in golden light moments before sunset, was serendipitous. Starting our sea safari at 6 am and indulging in a delicious Quesadilla Deshebrada en route, despite the risk of diving with a full stomach, added to the adventure. Exploring the food scene in La Paz led us to frequent McFisher for lunch and Esterito for dinner, savoring deep-fried shrimp, Costilla, Suadero, and sharing a Tripa. We brought our own wine or Margarita, willingly taking the risk. Tasting the mammillaria cactus fruit during a sunset hike on the cactus hill provided an unexpected thrill.
The glamping experience was truly enchanting. From a majestic high-ceiling canvas tent in the heart of the desert, I enjoyed breathtaking views of the starry sky and the soothing sound of crickets at night. It was something I had always dreamt of experiencing. The outdoor shower and supposedly hot tub (which turned out not to be hot at all) added to the rustic charm. On New Year's Eve, instead of attending a rave, we happily savored biscuits and bananas. Taking a muddy walk along the mangroves, getting an appointment with the grey whales, participating in the mysterious and deeply engaging Temazcal Ceremony, munching on fish and shrimp quesadilla while dipping our feet in the peculiar hot spring in the ocean at La Ventana, learning how to spearfish and bravely facing off with a moray eel to protect my catch—these were all memories etched in my mind.
The fire pit at the Sol de Mayo Rancho, the aroma of baked camotes, and the sizzling of flame-grilled steak created an unforgettable dining experience. Countless stars and meteors provided a backdrop for making a wish straight from the heart. Venturing into the oasis with its towering hairy palm trees, accompanied by the flowing mountain spring, led to an unexpected baptism of a cold water jacuzzi. I would have never imagined myself saying it, but I became somewhat addicted to jumping into the freezing pond with its fresh, clear water, surrounded by the sounds of the waterfall and the gentle rustling of palm leaves.
And now, the stolen time has come to an end. However, certain moments—the sounds, thoughts, feelings, and profound vibrations—have been imprinted in my memory. They are forever inscribed in my being, and I know that I will never be the same again. Those cherished experiences have left an indelible mark on my soul, shaping my perspective and understanding of the world. As I prepare to leave this captivating place, I carry with me a profound sense of gratitude for the stolen time, the stolen moments that allowed me to immerse myself in the beauty of Baja California Sur. I am grateful for the adventures, the encounters, and the connections made with both nature and the local community. Each experience has enriched my life and expanded my horizons. Though I may physically return to my routine and the familiarity of home, a part of me will forever yearn for the sun-soaked beaches, the awe-inspiring wildlife, and the untamed spirit of Baja. The memories will remain a cherished treasure, reminding me of the limitless wonders that await when we open ourselves to the unknown and embrace the magic of the world around us. And so, as I bid farewell to Baja California Sur, I carry the essence of this journey deep within my heart. The stolen time has transformed into a timeless memory, a reminder of the infinite possibilities that exist when we allow ourselves to wander, to explore, and to seize every precious moment that comes our way.
Important Notice: Swimming with whales is strictly prohibited by Mexican law. While diving in the sea, you may have the fortunate opportunity to witness these majestic creatures alongside other marine life, but such encounters heavily rely on chance. It is crucial to prioritize the well-being of wildlife, and genuine interactions occur when both humans and animals share a mutual curiosity. True magic unfolds when wildlife willingly chooses to engage with humans. Please ensure that any interactions are conducted safely, ethically, and with utmost care and caution.