Nick Pelios
Freediver, Creator
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Nick Pelios
Freediver, Creator
Rip currents are channelized currents of water flowing away from shore at surf beaches. They typically form at breaks in sandbars, and also near structures such as jetties and piers and are commonly found on all surf beaches. Rip currents pull people away from shore and current speeds can vary from moment to moment and can quickly increase to become dangerous to anyone entering the surf. They can sweep even the strongest swimmer away from shore and according to a scientific review of data provided to the United States Lifesaving Association, there are over 100 deaths each year in the U.S. attributed to them. So, what can we do if we get caught in one? Here's what UC Berkeley suggests.
"The current is so strong that most people can't even swim against it and will get pulled right out. Even, in some cases, an Olympic swimmer will get pulled out. A rip current is a small coastal stream that flows out through the surf zone. When you come to the beach, you'll see surf breaking then you'll see a calm spot. That calm spot's usually where the rip current is between the breakers. It's deceiving because that area is the calmest and it's where most people would think, "Well, this looks like a good place to wade.” That area's the dangerous part".
"Where you really want to go is where the waves are the biggest. Ocean Beach is a very dangerous beach and it's considered one of the most dangerous beaches because of the rip currents. See the drainage into here? The holes? The shallow area? Wave's gonna come up in here and it's gonna all channel into here. It'll snap and it'll flow out. It'll find the least path of resistance basically. That'll be a little channel going out. It doesn't have to be a huge channel, just has to be a depression in the sand, the topography below the water. It can go anywhere from two meters a second to eight meters a second. That's why you need to pay attention to the ocean and not get sucked into these things".
"When you go to the beach, go with a friend, go with a buddy. Someone to keep an eye on you and you can keep an eye on them. The first thing to remember if you do get caught in a rip current is to remain calm. The rip current will only take you out past the breakers. It won't pull you down. It won't take you way, way out into the ocean. Relax, get your bearings, see where you are, and see how fast you're going out. Don't swim against and don't fight against the current, just let it take you out beyond the breakers. Float there, find your bearings and swim parallel to shore for about 25 yards or so. You'll be out of the rip current most of the time and then swim, surf the waves, basically, back to the beach. On all the beaches in California, you should always lookout for the ocean. You should never turn your back on the ocean. If you can't swim, you should never go in the water. You should always learn to swim. If you're wondering about going out, don't go out. When in doubt, don't go out".